Right now, I have a potato rösti in the oven, which will hopefully be a tasty brunch on a
crisp disconcertingly hot autumn Sunday.
But I am not here to discuss potatoes. I am here to talk about condiments, specifically ketchup and mustard, specifically specifically how to make them.
Now, the funny thing about this is that I've never actually liked ketchup or mustard† (or any condiment, really, save for maybe aioli, and I'm not sure that's even really a condiment in the same sense as ketchup or mustard, though it is mayonnaise, which is a condiment, which I also dislike, so I JUST DON'T KNOW). BUT, I do like a challenge, and the concept of making ketchup and mustard seemed so quaint and useless that I obviously had to try it.
MUSTARD
I've recently come to accept mustard as an ingredient in things (what with mustard seeds/oil comprising its own food group in the Bengali food pyramid), though I'm still suspicious of mustard on sandwiches and hotdogs, but given how I don't really eat sandwiches or hotdogs, I don't worry too much about it. We used to have tiny jars of Grey Poupon in the fridge for use as an emulsifier in salad dressings, but one day we ran out and decided, "Well, we have pounds of mustard seeds – why not just make mustard?".§
Now, if you have ever had that talk with your parents about Where Mustard Comes From, you'll know that making standard yellow mustard (akin to the kind that my parents seem to keep in the fridge for years) is very simple: take mustard powder, mix water, maybe add some vinegar if you're feeling sassy. Voila!—Mustard. However, I decided to make wholegrain mustard, because I am hardcore and like spending three days to make food I may never actually eat.
This is what the mustard looks like.
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| Yay for hoarding jars! |
As for taste, I actually have no idea. We haven't needed any since we made it (during the Time Without Mustard, we moved away from emulsifying salad dressings, and haven't yet gone back). But it looks like mustard and smells like mustard, which means we are at least two for three here. (Still, I'm a little scared of it. I've taken a sniff, and it sort of burns my nose; I'm a tiny bit concerned about what it will do to my esophagus.)
KETCHUP
Though I had my ketchup consumption limited when I was young, my mother did not do the same with my younger brother, who took to ketchup with a will that I have not seen equaled. He put it on everything; he probably would have put in on salad, had we ever eaten any, or pancakes, if that wasn't disgusting even for him. I'm sure that part of my aversion to ketchup stems from his overenthusiasm. I have terrifying memories of washing off plates simply covered in ketchup, like some horrible crime scene where the french fries or mac and cheese suffered a gruesome fate at the hands of a deranged psychopath.
So you can see why I was so excited to make some.
I've occasionally tried ketchup since then, often by accident and usually when I'm sharing a plate of fries and my half gets infiltrated by the Red Menace. I still can't see the appeal of ketchup – it's overly sweet and, for something made of so many tomatoes (and classified as a vegetable for the purposes of school lunch pyramids), it tastes nothing like tomatoes. And I like tomatoes.
While back in New York this summer, I started watching re-runs of
Jamie at Home, a cooking show about the exploits of Jamie Oliver and a loveable hobo^ as they garden their way into good food. (Or something.) It is probably the food-porniest food porn I've ever seen, all about soft-focus shots of Jamie cooking at his wood-fired grill, or close-ups of fresh fruits and vegetables from the garden, or (clearly re-dubbed) sounds of food sizzling in hot oil, or slowly-panning money shots of glorious-looking food on adorable rustic plates. None of the food is too fancy; the focus is more on using great ingredients simply so that the natural flavors shine through. Turns out that Joliver (as we call him) had a ketchup recipe, one with lots of tomatoes and not much sugar and some interesting ingredients. I used the recipe from the cookbook companion to the show, and while the tomatoes were simmering, The Husband and I sat down to watch the episode in question ("Pickles and Preserves").
Of course, the recipe in the book is not the same as the one on TV. Well, the ingredients are the same, but the methods differ; the recipe I give below is a combination of the two, using what I think makes most sense. Either way, the ketchup was a success; we made some grilled potato chips for our first tasting, and I really enjoyed how the tomato taste shone through, and was complimented by the acidity and sweetness of the vinegar and sugar.
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| Strange-looking honey. |
HA! Take that, Heinz. Ketchup does not need high fructose corn syrup, thankyouverymuch. It also doesn't need to be a
non-Newtonian fluid.¥
RECIPES
MUSTARD (from
here, which you should totally buy because it is awesome and will teach you how to forage for limpets)
Ok, to make wholegrain mustard, take 6 T. brown mustard seeds, mix in 2/3 c. white wine vinegar, and let it sit out for 3 or 4 days (the longer it sits, the hotter it gets). After it's done soaking, use a mortar and pestle to coarsely grind the mustard seeds and vinegar (just enough to crack the seeds – you aren't making a paste). Grind 1/4 c. yellow mustard seeds in a spice grinder (or use mustard powder if you're lazy, not that I'd judge you or anything...) and mix this into the mustard/vinegar blend, adding another 1/4 c. white wine vinegar, 2 T. honey, and 2 tsp. salt. Pour into a small jar, and store in a cool, dry place.
KETCHUP (adapted from
here, to compensate for Jamie Oliver's inability to remember his own recipe)
1 large red onion, chopped (everything can be roughly chopped, since it'll all go into a food processor later)
1/2 fennel bulb, chopped
1 stick celery, trimmed and chopped
thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and chopped
1/2 red chile, de-seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
bunch basil, chopped
1 T. coriander seeds
2 cloves
1 tsp. black pepper
2 lbs. roma tomatoes, chopped
3/4 c. + 2 T. red wine vinegar
1/3 c. brown sugar
In mortar and pestle, grind up the coriander, cloves, and black pepper. Add this, along with all the onion, fennel, celery, ginger, chile, and garlic, to a large saucepan and saute 10-15 minutes, until soft. Add the tomatoes and 1 1/2 c. water; bring to a boil, then simmer until tomatoes break down and the liquid has been reduced by half. Add basil leaves, mix, then remove from heat, pour into food processor/blender, and whiz until well-blended and pureed. Put the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan, then add the sugar and vinegar (NOTE: I didn't think this was enough vinegar, so I added some cider vinegar as well, to taste), bring back to boil, and simmer until it reaches the consistency of ketchup. Add salt and pepper to taste, then spoon into sterilized jars. Close tightly and keep in a cool, dark place – it should keep for up to six months.
*Bet you never heard THAT witticism, or any variation of same, before.
†This is a lie. I used to eat ketchup constantly when I was a wee little one. But one day, my great-aunt told my mother that, if I was allowed to wantonly eat ketchup on everything, I wouldn't eat food that didn't have ketchup in it. So I was cut off from ketchup, and by the time I was allowed to eat it again, I wanted no part of it. This general sass continues to this day.
§Because this is how normal people think. Right? Please say yes.
^This is another lie. He's not really a hobo. I think.
¥Science!
